A Guide to the Market Value of Mid-Century Costume Jewelry

Have you ever found a stunning old brooch or a pair of sparkling earrings at a flea market or in a relative’s jewelry box and wondered what it might be worth? You’re not alone. This guide is designed to help you understand the fascinating market for authentic mid-century costume jewelry and identify the key factors that give these beautiful accessories their value.

Understanding Mid-Century Costume Jewelry

Before diving into value, it’s important to know what we’re talking about. The term “mid-century” generally refers to the period from the 1930s through the 1960s. Costume jewelry, sometimes called fashion jewelry, was created to be fashionable and affordable, complementing an outfit for a season or special occasion.

Unlike fine jewelry, which uses precious metals like gold and platinum and genuine gemstones, costume jewelry was made with less expensive materials. This includes base metals like brass or pewter, often plated with gold or silver tones, and adorned with brilliant glass crystals, rhinestones, faux pearls, and innovative plastics like Lucite and Bakelite. However, “costume” does not mean poor quality. The best mid-century pieces feature incredible design, artistry, and craftsmanship that make them highly sought after by collectors today.

Key Factors That Determine Value

Not all vintage costume jewelry is valuable. The price for a piece can range from a few dollars to several thousand. The market value is determined by a combination of four primary factors: the maker, the condition, the rarity, and the materials used.

1. The Designer or Maker’s Mark

This is often the most important factor in determining value. Many designers and companies “signed” their pieces with a specific mark, logo, or signature. A piece signed by a famous and collectible designer will almost always be worth more than an unsigned one. When examining a piece, look carefully on the back, on the clasp, or on a small metal tag for a maker’s mark.

Top-Tier Designers to Look For:

• Miriam Haskell: Known for elaborate, handmade designs using faux pearls, glass beads, and intricate metalwork. Early pieces from the 1920s to late 1940s were often unsigned, making them identifiable by their unique construction.
• Trifari: A giant in the industry, especially pieces designed by Alfred Philippe in the 1930s and 40s. Look for the “Trifari” mark with a crown over the “T,” which was used from the late 1930s to 1955. Their “Jelly Belly” brooches, which feature a clear Lucite cabochon for the animal’s belly, are exceptionally valuable.
• Eisenberg: Famous for using the highest quality Swarovski crystals that had exceptional brilliance. Their pieces are known for their classic, elegant designs. The mark “Eisenberg Original” is highly desirable.
• Schiaparelli: The surrealist and avant-garde designs of Elsa Schiaparelli are iconic. Her jewelry is known for its unusual themes, bold colors, and unique materials. Any piece signed “Schiaparelli” is a significant find.

Other Highly Collectible Brands:

• CoroCraft / Vendôme: Coro was a prolific manufacturer, but their high-end lines, CoroCraft (often sterling) and Vendôme, are the most valuable. The Coro “Duette” brooches, which are two dress clips that can be joined together on a single frame, are very popular.
• Chanel: Vintage Chanel costume jewelry is extremely valuable. Look for pieces from the mid-century era designed by Robert Goossens.
• DeLizza & Elster (Juliana): This company never signed its jewelry. Pieces are identified by their specific construction, including high-quality rhinestones, open-back settings, and distinctive “five-link” bracelet construction. Collectors often refer to it as “Juliana.”

2. Condition

The condition of a piece is critical to its value. Collectors want items that are as close to their original state as possible.

• Stones: Are all the rhinestones or crystals present? Are any of them “dead” (cloudy or dark)? Bright, sparkling stones are ideal.
• Plating: Is the metal finish intact? Look for wear, flaking, or green discoloration (verdigris), which can significantly lower the value.
• Functionality: Do the clasps, pins, and clips work correctly and securely?
• Repairs: Check for signs of sloppy repairs, like glue marks around stones, which can decrease the value.

3. Rarity and Design

Like any collectible, rarity drives up the price.

• “Book Pieces”: This term refers to jewelry that has been featured in a collector’s guide or reference book. Being a “book piece” verifies its designer and desirability, instantly increasing its market value.
• Limited Production: Some designs were produced in smaller quantities and are harder to find.
• Complete Sets (Parures): A matching set of a necklace, bracelet, and earrings (a parure) is much rarer and more valuable than a single piece. Even a two-piece set (a demi-parure) is more desirable.
• Unusual Designs: Figurals (jewelry shaped like animals, people, or objects) and pieces with complex designs or moving parts often command higher prices than simple floral or abstract pieces.

4. Materials and Craftsmanship

While costume jewelry uses non-precious materials, the quality still varies greatly. High-end pieces from top designers used the best materials available. For example, Eisenberg was known for exclusively using top-of-the-line Swarovski crystals from Austria. The weight and feel of a piece can also indicate quality. Well-made jewelry feels substantial, not flimsy. The intricacy of the metalwork and the precision of the stone settings are also hallmarks of high-quality craftsmanship that collectors will pay more for.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is all signed costume jewelry valuable? No. While a signature is a great starting point, the value still depends on the designer, the specific piece, and its condition. Some brands, like Napier or Monet, were very popular but produced jewelry in such large quantities that most individual pieces have a modest value. However, their rare and elaborate designs can still be quite valuable.

Where is the best place to find the market value of a piece? A great way to gauge the current market is to check the “sold” listings on online marketplaces like eBay and Etsy. This shows you what buyers are actually willing to pay for a specific item, which is a better indicator of value than active listing prices.

How should I care for my vintage jewelry? Store pieces separately in soft cloth bags or lined boxes to prevent scratching and tangling. Avoid exposing them to moisture, perfume, or hairspray, as these can damage the plating and stones. To clean, gently wipe with a dry, soft cloth. Avoid using liquid jewelry cleaners, which can be too harsh.